Wood Selection
Wood Selection
Why we build with solid hardwood (and not veneer, stain, or plastic)
- Authentic beauty. Hardwood has real color, depth, and grain. No printed patterns or tinted tones.
- Longevity. Solid boards can be leveled, repaired, and refinished decades later. Thin veneers can’t take much sanding, and damage usually exposes the bulk filler underneath and can't be repaired.
- Feel & sound. Dense hardwood is heavy, and gives a pleasing “click” when pieces land. Blitz matches sound right.
- Variety & Uniqueness. There is no substitute for the vast natural variety of hardwoods. Every tree has its own unique twists, tones, figures, and shimmers.
We build to order and hand-select stock for color harmony, figure, and stability.
Hardwood Terminology
- Grain: The visible patterns made by the wood fibers, usually alternating between light & dark strips, akin to the rings of a tree. Open grain means there are visible "pores" among the fibers
- Figure: The twists and turns of the grain as it dances down the length of the board, caused by the tree's own growth patterns. Some figure appears to be quilted, dotted, rippled, or even electrical.
- Shimmer ("Chatoyance"): A liquid, 3-dimensional glow when you move the board under light, caused by the fibers naturally forming microscopic waves. You have to see it in person to get how incredible this is.
- Luster: How reflective the surface appears after fine sanding and finishing.
Why it matters: Fine sanding and a hand-rubbed finish amplify luster and chatoyance, making light ripple through the board like silk.
Light woods
Maple
Look: Creamy white, fine grain, naturally high luster
Style: Clean, modern, gallery-bright; the classic light square for high contrast.
Great for: Minimal to modern interiors; crisp tournament look.
White Oak
Look: Pale tan with speckled rays on some cuts with deep open grain
Style: Heritage to mid-century modern depending on cut and frame thickness.
Great for: Warm, architectural spaces; timeless understatement.
Ash
Look: Light, open grain with relaxed texture. More visible grain than maple.
Style: Casual, contemporary, and leaning towards rustic
Great for: Bright rooms wanting texture without busyness.
Dark woods
Black Walnut
Look: Chocolate to espresso brown. Intriguing but modest figure, and open grain
Style: Understated luxury; the most simulated wood tone on the planet
Great for: Anywhere—from modern condos to classic studies.
Cherry
Look: Copper-to-rosy brown that deepens beautifully with time. Milky figure, closed grain.
Style: Inviting, heirloom warmth; elegant and never showy
Great for: Cozy, traditional, or transitional interiors.
Jatoba (Brazilian Cherry)
Look: Amber-to-red-brown; dense, smooth, and very durable. Straight and speckled grain.
Style: Sophisticated, substantial, and a touch formal. Uncommonly rich colour.
Great for: Statement pieces that still read classic.
Sapele
Look: Medium-dark with ribbon stripe on some cuts; striking shimmer and open grain.
Style: Elegant and lively under light; a red-brown cousin to mahogany.
Great for: Rooms with warm, dynamic lighting
Purpleheart
Look: Naturally purple (!) shifting toward deep plum-brown over time. Subtle closed grain.
Style: Bold, modern, unforgettable as an accent. It's purple!
Great for: Bold showpieces and contemporary artful builds.
Wenge
Look: Espresso-to-near-black with fine linear striping; strong texture and wide open grain.
Style: Architectural, serious, ultra-modern—maximum contrast with light woods.
Great for: Monochrome or black-and-white interiors; gallery spaces.
Exotic & figured options (one-of-a-kind statements)
Spalted Maple
Look: Natural ink-like veining created by spalting; each board is a unique artwork.
Style: Organic and artistic. The Jackson Pollock of woods
Great for: Statement pieces, deviating from the norm, and enjoying what nature is capable of.
Quilted / Bird’s-Eye / Flamed Maple
Look: Intense figure with strong shimmer deserving to be called "chatoyance"
Style: Luxurious and eye-catching without loud color.
Great for: Stepping up a classic design with extra depth and character
Peruvian Walnut
Look: Darker, sleeker, and more uniform than Black Walnut.
Style: Modern and refined; a great “black-tie” alternative to Black Walnut.
Great for: Bumping up the style with something more rare and interesting than expected.
Ebony (Gaboon)
Look: A completely black wood. Luxurious and captivating with a subtly closed grain
Style: The pinnacle of upscale woodworking. Treasured by many.
Great for: Layered, high contrast artistic boards for making every game brilliant.
Looking for something else—Bocote, Ziricote, Padauk, Bubinga, Bloodwood, Leopardwood, Mahogany? We can source and advise on stability, tone, and finish.
How wood ages (patina over time)
- Walnut lightens slightly toward a golden espresso.
- Cherry deepens from light copper to rich red-brown.
- Maple/Ash/Oak take on a gentle honey warmth.
- Purpleheart mellows from vivid purple toward deep plum-brown.
- Jatoba/Sapele deepen and even out beautifully.
- Wenge can lighten a touch but stays firmly in the espresso/black family.
Light exposure is the primary driver of patina formation, but the process is inevitable. We use finishes that protect from UV and oxidation for as long as possible. However, every wood we use looks absolutely gorgeous at every stage of its life. Enjoy the process.
Finish options (feel, sheen, and care)
We typically use a hardwax finish on all of our boards. This is different from regular wax or oil in a number of ways.
Typical Wax/Oil
- Soaks into the fibers, bringing out the depth of their natural colours, without adding any additional luster
- Mild protection from water or humidity, without fully sealing the wood
- Remains semi-liquid, and gradually dissipates over time
Modern Hardwax
- Soaks into the fibers, bringing out the depth of their natural colours, and hardens at the surface to give an enhanced luster
- Superior protection from water and humidity, fully sealing the wood while allowing the wood to "breath"
- Designed for use in modern homes including flooring and furniture. Stays solid for a very long time
- Easy to touch-up scratches and scuffs
The modern Hardwax is our preferred varnish. However, other varnish types offer their own benefits, and we can make them look their best:
- Polyurethane creates a thin layer of plastic-like film over the board. This allows a higher level of luster and more water protection, at the expense of looking a bit less natural, and not drawing out as much depth of colour from the wood.
- Epoxy creates a thick translucent glass-like layer over the board. If left unsanded, epoxy is almost water-like, which makes it popular for river-tables or otherwise filling large gaps. Commonly used for bar-tops as it is extremely easy to clean.
Care & longevity
- Keep away from direct heat/AC blasts and direct sun.
- Keep in a climate-controlled environment. Excess humidity or dryness can cause the board to warp. (Our design mitigates the risk of warping causing permanent damage. We allow the wood to move naturally)
- If your board warps suddenly, this is usually due to uneven absorption of humidity. Give it a few days with air flow on all sides and it should return to flat.
- Adhere felt pads to the four corners of the board to protect the bottom from scratches, and maintain airflow below the board.
- Wipe spills promptly; use a soft cloth.
- Hardwax-oil boards can be refreshed by rubbing in mineral oil with a soft cloth
- Use a soft-bristled toothbrush to clean open-grained woods of dust
With basic care, a solid hardwood chess board will serve for generations—and look better every year.
Need a recommendation?
Send us a photo of your space (and your chessmen if you have them). We’ll suggest woods, square size, notation, and finish that fit your style and budget.